Skagen Denmark
2021-09-14:18

Tuesday: Yesterday we had our heating system installed. Fortunately the exchange was completed by the evening. This morning we luxuriated in an expensive but warm shower. 08:27 we left Skillinge with the destination of Skagen in Denmark.

Anna knitted socks while I drove us over the Öresund bridge and later Stora Bältsbron. She tried to swat a small fly that had woken late and one of her knitting needles flew away. We stopped for coffee and a korv and the offending device was found.

Our hotel in Skagen is more “at home with” but adequate. We enjoyed a beer at Bröndums Hotel where we decided to eat this evening.

The Skagen painters used Bröndums as their drinking hole in the late 1800’s. It has lived since then on their fame. We ate from a menu restricted by staff shortages. We drank restricted by a wine list with ridiculous prices. The environment was old and stylish. I was a tick on our to do list which does not need repeating.

Wednesday: After breakfast we drove to Grenen. Here two seas meet at the tip of a long sandy beach. Waves coming from two different directions noticeably met. We were not alone. A tractor drew a carriage, Sandormen, which was full of grey haired Bornholmenas. We had by contrast walked for 30 minutes along the beach. After the battle of the waves, we ascended 207 steps to the top of the lighthouse vantage point. It was an impressive view with an equally interesting exhibition of the local ornithology at its base.

We took a short tour to Old Skagen which was full of old and new built yellow/amber coloured houses. From here you can see the sun go down from a circular canted viewing area. We did not wait.

Lunch was in a very busy smorrebrod restaurant. Very good but we underestimated the amount of food we were to receive and hence were forced to sleep off the excess in our hotel. Dinner was in an Italian we enjoyed simple good food and an excellent Grappa. The first wine we were offered was way too sweet, but they recovered our trust with the replacement bottle. The promised rain arrived and we made our wet way home.

Thursday: Overnight It rained with strong winds. We decided to take a look at the west coast of Skagen and a wool shop which was full of tasteful knitted garments none of which were available to buy. You purchase a pattern, wool and then find someone to knit it. Anna has lots of knitting projects right now, so I returned a wonderful jumper back to the exhibition rack.

Our next stop was Hirtshals a busy fishing and ferry port. In the rain it did not look picturesque but I suspect it never does. We drove around the port area and found an excellent fish restaurant where I ate a large, tasty plaice.

After yet another unexpectedly filling lunch we returned to our hotel to let it settle and get out of the rain. In early evening we wandered in Skagen’s port which hosted an impressive collection of enormous fishing boats. They looked more like passenger ferries, new and shiny. It’s not hard to understand overfishing when you see this array of hardware.

We ate tapas and drank a good zinfandel before wandering home in the wind but fortunately no rain.

Friday: It was still raining when we made the 5-minute walk to Skagen Museum. There was an elegant exhibition of the Skagen painters. Fishermen in work clothes and ladies in long flowing dresses walking along sandy beaches was a recurring theme. The paintings reminded me of the vital importance of light to any picture. Estate agents say, “it’s all about position” artists “it’s all about the light”.

After lunch we shopped for a few take homes of local beer and chacuterie. Dinner was back to our Italian for pasta. It was excellent, not overcooked, generous and flavoursome. A group of noisy Norwegians were also in the restaurant. When we left I told them that we were impressed they were having a party for a deaf friend. I asked which one of them it was so we could congratulate them also. Alcohol induces deafness but also the tendency to laugh inanely which they did.

It has been excellent with the high point being Skagen Museum. Back to Skillinge tomorrow.